Gazette Food Critic Enjoys Horsemeat
Lesley Chesterman, food critic of The Montreal Gazette, reviewed a restaurant in Montreal called “DNA”. This is what she wrote about the horse filet dish served by chef Derek Dammann:
“…a horse filet served with apples, radish slices, and a sauce flavoured with hay. I know the idea of horse meat may seem gruesome to many, but this filet was as tender as the finest filet mignon and with miles more flavour. And who but Dammann would have the moxi (sic) to serve it with an accompaniment of the animal’s favourite feed?” (p. h6, March 10,2012 Weekend edition of The Montreal Gazette, Dining Out. Lesley Chesterman)
Oh, that Dammann…what a kidder! How whimsical, how original to serve horse meat with a side of hay. No doubt he also serves wild boar with its favourite feed: the head of a gazelle. Needless to say, resto DNA is nothing if not completely consistent: chairs are upholstered in snakeskin, and other rather exotic dishes are seal-lami and duck testicle pasta (ouch). And, vegetarians, note that this restaurant is listed as: vegetarian-friendly (well, that’s all right then…sigh).
Chesterman who applies rather stringent criteria in evaluating a chef’s skills was “dazzled by his mastery of unusual ingredients too few Montreal chefs are willing to explore.” Clearly, Chesterman was so bedazzled as to be blind.
An old saying from the women’s movement was: ”kick the ball and drag Fred”, referring to the ball-and-chain nature of trying to progress and evolve while you’re chained to stragglers who resisted all change to the status quo…”Fred” being the eponymous signifier of all those reluctant sticks-in-the-mud.
Times haven’t changed much at all (no offense, Bob Dylan), have they? I must leave you now, and as I take a step forward in to the future, I won’t forget to drag Lesley, um sorry, I mean, Fred along with me.